Yquem 1998

The '98 d'Yquem has a more extravagant nose than I remember, less mineralite than it displayed in its youth and perhaps a little more alcoholic on the nose. There are touches of pineapple, mango, treacle and custard cremes, becoming peachier with time in the glass. The palate is viscous on the entry and very well balanced with honeycomb, white peach, apricot and wild honey that leads to a powerful, if not elegant finish. The '98 is a little "unruly" at present. Drink 2016-2030. Tasted December 2010.

Although there is a lot of sweet fruit on the nose there are lovely peachy, orange blossom fragrances. Crème Brulêe, candied peel and honey give voluptuous richness on the mid palate with peach and apricot at the back. Sensuous and lush yet enough freshness to bring out a hint of botrytis and give a stylish elegance to the finish. Drink 2011-35.