Wiltinger Braune Kupp Kabinett, Le Gallais, Egon Müller 2023

The 2023 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett opens clear and bright on the stunningly coolish and filigreed nose that certainly also displays delicate slate aromas. It is openhearted yet also fascinatingly refined and built up from ripe and concentrated fruit. Dense and savory on the palate, this is a substantial Kabinett from vines planted in the late 19th century and that were partly renewed in 1994 and 2015. It is a spicy, energetic and remarkably complex Kabinett with a lot of substance and ripe acidity. It is very long and not really sweet in taste. This is a gorgeous Kabinett from a warmer monopole where Egon Müller cultivates four hectares of vines, half of which is leased. Although fermented in the Scharzhof like all the wines from Egon Müller, it comes with another label and the addition Le Gallais. Tasted form AP #2 in April 2024. Drink: 2024-2055

The expressive nose of apricots and red gooseberries pulls you into this youthful riesling kabinett that has wonderful elegance on the light-bodied, barely off-dry palate. Quite some power in the finish, but not at the expense of the delicacy that’s so essential for this category. Drink or hold.