Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard 2012

**Note: from a .74 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines**While reduction renders the nose difficult to assess there is plenty of Vosne-style spice in the form of inner mouth perfumed. There is excellent volume, power and muscle to the intensely mineral-infused big-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the explosively long and impeccably well-balanced finish that goes on and on. This is flat out terrific though note that plenty of time will be required to fully realize the marvelous development potential. A classic Malconsorts of power and depth.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts from winemaker Sebastian Cathiard was showing some reduction like de Montille's Malconsorts: rather animally on the nose with a touch of rubber, missing the delineation it might have otherwise possessed. Returning after ten minutes, that feral aspect ebbs away. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and sweet tannin. It shakes off that reduction to reveal a nicely defined, quite voluminous finish that is bursting with red fruit. If it does pull through it will deserve a very good mark and I suspect it will do just that.

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts comes from 0.75-hectares of 42-year old vine, the largest of Cathiard's premier crus. After allowing a few minutes of the reduction to blow away, it reveals a lovely bouquet drenched in mineral-rich dark berry fruit - blackberry and blueberry on full song. The palate is medium-bodied and tightly wound at the moment but there is a wonderful sense of symmetry and poise. This is a brilliant wine.