Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard 2008

A superbly complex and densely fruited nose combines a classy mix of red berry liqueur, blue berry and violet aromas nuanced by exotic tea and hints of hoisin and soy that introduce relatively powerful and sleekly muscled yet refined flavors underpinned by a firm but ripe tannic backbone and an explosive finish. A stunner of a Malconsorts but note that patience will be required.

Good medium-deep red. Ripe aromas of raspberry, licorice and smoked meat, with deeper-pitched soil tones adding nuance. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, conveying an impression of huge volume without heaviness. Not showing its treble notes now but this expands in the mouth and explodes on the palate-staining finish. Seems already to be going into a shell; today the Orveaux is more expressive.