Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2012

The 2012 Comtes de Champagne is gorgeous. Warm and resonant in the glass, the 2012 Comtes shows all the allure that makes this vintage so appealing. The combination of bright citrus, mineral and floral notes typical of Comtes, enhanced by the soft contours of the vintage, makes for an inviting, open-knit Champagne that is quite showy right out of the gate. Light tropical accents on the finish add an exotic flair. Usually I recommend cellaring just-released Comtes, but that won’t be necessary here. Drink 2022 - 2042.

The 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is showing beautifully out of the gates, offering up demonstrative aromas of sweet golden orchard fruit, buttery croissants, peach and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and enveloping, it's a rich, textural, vinous Comtes somewhat reminiscent of the brilliant 2002. If it gains in tension and cut (as the 2002 did and as I suspect the 2012 will) with more time on cork, it will make this initial rating seem conservative. 2024 - 2055

From a high-maturity vintage shaped by a mid-September harvest and reduced yields owing to significant frost and mildew pressure, the 2012 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne—disgorged in 2022 with a dosage of nine grams per liter—is showing nicely, offering aromas of mocha, pear, peach and dried flowers mingled with notes of browned, buttered toast. Full-bodied, deep and muscular, with a sweet, enveloping core of fruit, it is an ample and textural Comtes, though without the tension of the 2013 or 2014 editions, and it will age on its concentration rather than its acidity. 2026-2052

From the Grand Crus of Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Oger, the 2012 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Comtes De Champagne comes back swinging after last year's release and assumes a more noble and layered profile... it has fantastic aromatic complexity, with wonderful custardy and classic aromas of lemon curd, crème brûlée, shortbread, and honeysuckle. The nose is hard to resist, and on the palate, it’s full-bodied, with a refined and pillowy mousse and a delicate warmth on the finish. It hits a lot of the right marks in this vintage, offering plenty of purity and balance... It’s just such a pleasurable wine, 2012 marks an exceptional return for this cuvée...