Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1996

Taittinger’s 1996 Comtes de Champagne is another highlight. The flavors are only now beginning to show elements of complexity, a great sign for aging. Gently spiced and buttery notes suggest the 1996 is about to enter the early part of its maturity, where it is likely to stay for another decade or so. Drink 2014-2026.

With respect to the wines, the Taittinger 1996 Comtes de Champagne gets better every time I have it. Even though I have been scoring it in the mid-nineties since its release, I am beginning to think I have underrated it. 1996 is an exquisite vintage for Champagne, ranking alongside my all time favorite, 1990, only fresher. This marvelous 1996 is loaded with yeasty brioche notes intermixed with honeyed citrus, and a texture reminiscent of a fine white Burgundy.

One of very few world-class releases from this vintage, the 1996 Comtes de Champagne is right up there with the 1976 as the foremost release from the 20th century. The epitome of crisp, malic brightness in its infant years, but never the apple-skin, potentially oxidative aromatic spectrum that blighted many '96s. That rapier-like energy has stayed with this Champagne on its evolutionary journey; it is now perfectly mature, with long, linear, and finely layered nutty-toasty aromas. The balance and precision are exceptional, the finish palate-staining in its intensity. So complex. Drink from 2023-2032. Tasted: December 2022.