Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1995

A total turn-on, the 1995 Comtes de Champagne is utterly magnificent. Orange marmalade, mint, smoke, hazelnuts, white truffles and honey blossom come to life in an exquisite, resonant Champagne that delivers the goods, big time. Opulent and exotic yet miraculously fresh for a 20 year-old wine, the 1995 Comtes is in a beautiful spot to deliver maximum drinking pleasure. With time in the glass, the 1995 becomes even more finessed. Readers who own the 1995 or can find it are in for a real treat. Let's leave it at that. Drink 2015-2035.

A knock out and still quite youthful nose that has everything that you could want in a luxury cuvée including notes of green apple, yeast, white pear and peach and very subtle spice hints merges into sophisticated and classy flavors presented on a base of firm but not aggressive effervescence and better acid support than many examples from ’95 have. A wonderful effort that is only just now beginning to unwind and for my preferences, it needs at least three more years in the cellar first before drinking well over the next two decades. 95/2010+

Toast and graphite flavors highlight this elegant, graceful blanc de blancs. It has a subtle power driving the candied berry and dried citrus notes, with a touch of pastry and the ever-present mineral. Fine harmony and finish. Drink now through 2015.

It was the first vintage of Comtes de Champagne that I drank in decent quantities. Released around the beginning of the 21st century, the forward fruit belied its robust, almost indestructible profile. For nearly a decade, this was in suspended animation: bright fruit accented with a toasty hazelnut aroma. It was only around 2010 that the first signs of development would appear. Recently, bottles show more tertiary honeyed notes framed by a line of sweet citrus. Retaining some freshness still, this should drink well for at least five years! Drink from 2023-2028. Tasted: 15-Dec-22.