Sperss, Gaja 2010

Dark red fruit, savory herbs, menthol, tobacco and smoke are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2010 Sperss. A wine of unusual translucency and nuance, in 2010 Sperss is supremely refined and less bombastic than is often the case. The 2010 shuts down quickly in the glass and its best days lie many, many years ahead. Today, though, I am quite struck by what appears to be a subtle yet noticeable change in direction at Gaja.

Very good deep red. Multidimensional aromas of raspberry, flowers, mocha, menthol, orange peel, licorice and underbrush, plus a whiff of petrol that reminded me of riesling. Densely packed and powerful but without any undue weight, showing terrific finesse and mouthfilling breadth to its flavors of red fruits, menthol and minerals. Superb inner-mouth tension here. Has the strength of fruit to support the powerful tannins on the unflagging finish. This should gain in complexity in bottle for two or three decades.