Smith Haut Lafitte 2005

Good fresh red-ruby color. Reticent but pure aromas of plum, mocha and tobacco. This began sweet and dense but a bit sullen, then exploded with aeration to show sharply delineated flavors of plum, tobacco, hot stones and smoked meat. Wonderfully fat and full wine that spreads out on the back to saturate the entire palate. This makes the '07 seem peppery and high-pitched in comparison. Very long on the aftertaste. I asked technical director Teitgen to name his favorite recent vintages in Pessac-Leognan, and he listed 1998, 2001 and 2005.

Rich and modern with unctuous dark fruit and integrated mocha notes. Palate full and generous with firm, ripe tannins that build and lift. Warm, round texture and finish. Drink 2013-2025.

This sensational, opaque blue/purple-colored wine from Smith Haut Lafitte has a gorgeous floral nose with notes of graphite, blueberries, blackberries, and cassis that jump from the glass of this inky, very dense, yet strikingly pure wine. Light on its feet despite its stunning concentration and multi-layered mouthfeel, this wine has fabulous intensity, richness and length. Quite impressive, and still incredibly youthful, this is a superstar of the vintage, and capable of lasting another 25-30 years. Drink 2015-2045.

One can’t say enough about the accomplishments the Cathiards have achieved at this property since 1990. Prior to their purchase of the property, appallingly diluted, vegetal, fruitless, charmless wines were produced, but they have turned Smith-Haut-Lafitte into a showcase Pessac-Leognan. The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2005's extraordinary nose reeks of charcoal, incense, scorched earth, abundant blackberry, blueberry, and cherry fruit, toast, and spice. Good acidity, huge but sweet tannin, and fabulous precision as well as definition characterize this full-bodied, super-concentrated effort. It should prove to be among the longest-lived wines yet made by the Cathiards. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.

This is another uncompromisingly made, gorgeous effort from Smith-Haut-Lafitte, a property that has done everything right since the new owners took over in 1990. The 2005's dense blue/purple color is accompanied by aromas of lead pencil shavings, espresso roast, blue and black fruits, and violets. Rich and dense with good acidity, high but sweet tannin, and an underlying minerality that is a characteristic of a top Graves, this beauty will require 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades or more.

I know it sounds like a broken record, but this may be the best Smith-Haut-Lafitte ever made. A prodigious effort, the 2005 boasts an inky/blue/purple color, sweet aromas of graphite, white chocolate, espresso, and blue, red, and black fruits, extraordinary density, moderately high tannin, medium body, fabulous layers, and an enticing texture. However, it comes across as delicate and fresh because of its acidity. This ageworthy Graves should last for 25-30+ years.

A wine with a blackberry and smoky wood. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Delicious already. Could be the best ever. Balanced and long. Gorgeous. Almost classic quality.

Dark crimson. High toned and spicy. Lots tucked in there for the future. Masses of tannin promises well for the future but it's all a little embryonic for now. Even slightly medicinal. Definitely not for now. Sweeter and spicier than the Domaine de Chevalier tasted alongside. 13.5%Drink 2018-204017++

Toasty mature nose with completeness. Flattering but a bit forward.

Very lively nose with lots of richness underneath. Fine sandy tannins. Very zesty with some quite obvious sweetness. Lots of punch. Drink 2016-26