Sancerre Chateau de Thauvenay Terres Blanches, Brochard, Hubert 2023

Brochard's Terres Blanches Sancerre comes from hand-harvested vines on clay-limestone soils, aged on lees for over four months with 100% maturation in stainless-steel tanks. Annual production is around 120,000 bottles. Despite its modest 12.5% alcohol, this has more of a New World feel with a riper, richer texture on the palate. Less floral, plenty of focus and acidity to keep the palate fresh, but it doesn't quite have the refinement of the Caillottes.

Heavy bottle, unfortunately. Heady linden perfume. Firm and with both linearity and smooth sweeping curves. It feels as if it has more body than 12.5% would suggest. Subtle pomelo fruit, green apple, crunchy vineyard peach and the sweet-liquorice of tarragon. Sweetly grassy – like burying your face in long lushly green grass. And then a brightly minty finish, neatly pointed. Lots of expressive energy.