Salon Le Mesnil 2002

The 2002 Salon is utterly mesmerizing. I have tasted the 2002 six or seven times since its release and even during those two months or so the wine has developed quite dramatically, as some of the exuberance that was present at the outset has begun to recede, revealing the wine's intense underlying minerality. The 2002 is a huge, dense wine loaded with fruit. All of the classic Salon citrus, slate and floral notes are present, but it is the wine's superb textural richness that stands out most. Even though I have not followed my own advice, I suggest readers to plan on cellaring the 2002 for a good number of years. Because of its density and depth, I expect the 2002 will develop into a fairly exotic, voluptuous Champagne, within the context of Salon, of course. I also suggest keeping an eye out for the magnums, which are sure to disappear from the market pretty much the minute they arrive.

Ethereal, with a refined, delicate mousse and a haunting array of flavors, from the vein of chalky minerality to ripe pastry fruit to a skein of spice and richer accents of spun honey, creamed almond and fleur de sel. The finely meshed acidity is racy and persistent, pushing the flavor range on the long, lacy finish. Lovely. Drink now through 2032. From France.

2002 Brut “Le Mesnil” Blanc de Blancs: (from magnum). As I commented the last time I reviewed this from 750 ml, I was mystified by the (relatively) poor showing as Salon is almost always excellent and often genuinely great. This example, though I underscore that this review is from magnum rather than 750 ml, displayed a quality and character that were literally worthy of being described as a night and day difference. So, the review from magnum format is: A cool and pure nose features notes of citrus, in particular lemon rind, along with plenty of yeast, green apple, floral and iodine elements. The refined and intense middle weight flavors are shaped by an ultra-fine mousse that contributes to the sense of subtlety and finesse, all wrapped in a fantastically long and deep finish. Moreover, this is absolutely nowhere near being ready as the ’02 version of Salon is going to age for years, indeed my 2022+ estimate may very well be 5 years too early. Either way, this is an estimable vintage for one of my favorite wines. 96/2022+

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Disgorged December 2012, dosage 6 g/l. Initial aroma is more creamy and open than the non-dosé but it seems to change less in the glass. More obviously generous than the non-dosé, has the same power but seems less driven. Rich, subtly yeasty and just slightly smoky/mineral. Tastes pretty dry, and dry enough for me. Very very long and beautifully balanced even though it is intensely fresh. Lovely definition and clarity and finesse and much more to come. Drink 2014-2032