Saint Veran Premiers Jus, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2020

Opening in the glass with scents of green orchard fruit, tart pineapple, freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and confit citrus, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction, Guffens's 2020 Saint-Véran 1er Jus is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a racy spine of acidity and a concentrated, tensile profile. Drink 2025-2045.

Just bottled, the 2020 Saint-Véran 1er Jus unwinds in the glass with notes of pear, barley sugar, confit citrus and fresh stone fruit. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's seamless and elegant, with stunning purity of fruit, marrying vivid flavors with striking amplitude and texture. While on opening it's a little tightly wound after its recent bottling, it wears its heart on its sleeve after 24 hours, so I suspect it will offer a broad drinking window.

As was the case in 2017, the 2020 Saint-Véran 1er Jus derives from the Clos des Poncetys and Les Combes. Mingling notions of pear, peach and grapefruit with hints of white flowers, beeswax and smoke, it's full-bodied, ample and concentrated, its bright spine of acidity cloaked in a layered core of fruit. Penetrating and electric, it is a brilliant wine in the making.