Romanée Conti, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2004

A supremely beautiful if very reserved nose with a stunning mélange of spice notes, floral notes, particularly violets, red and black berry fruit aromas plus nuances of earth, game and smoke combine to perfectly complement the equally reserved, pure and unbelievably precise and pure medium full flavors underpinned by sophisticated tannins and huge length. One of the aspects that I most admire about a great RC is that while other wines have class, Romanée-Conti defines the term. The other aspect that I find to be perhaps the most remarkable of all is the wine's ability to aggregate attributes unlike any other. Like the '04 La Tâche, this isn't the greatest vintage of Romanée-Conti I have ever tasted but it is one of the very finest in terms of the delicacy and harmony of expression.

It already smells of truffles, of morels in cream sauce. Aubert de Villaine said rather wistfully, "II would Romanée Conti could be like this every year". This wine positively dances on the palate - really lively and rich but very chewy with masses of acidity too. There's a hit of that merest hint of green leaf that is evident in the Richbourg but in this wine there are just so many other elements too. It really is the headiest of cocktails. This should be a truly stunning wine, so obviously great even at this stage.Drink 2015-2040.Date tasted 6th Aug 07.