Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva, Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España (CVNE) 2004

Firm and a bit austere, this red shows depth and drive, with chewy tannins supporting plum, tobacco, licorice and mineral flavors. The structure is solid but the wine remains fresh. Maturing now, this has a long life ahead. Drink now through 2024. 4,000 cases made.

The 2004 Imperial Gran Reserva is 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo aged in new French and American oak for 24 months. Deep crimson-colored, it gives up aromas of toast, spice box, espresso, blackberry, and plum. Medium to full-bodied, on the palate it displays a plush texture, ripe flavors, excellent volume and concentration, and a relatively forward personality. It will be approachable in 2-3 years and will offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2024.

(mostly tempranillo, with graciano and mazuelo, aged for 24 months in French and American oak): Bright-rimmed ruby-red. Heady red and dark berry aromas are complicated by notes of mocha, Indian spices and vanillin oak, with a potent floral quality. Stains the palate with sweet cherry and mulberry flavors, picking up anise, cola and vanilla bean accents that build with air. Supple, sweet and expansive on the finish, which leaves smoke and cherry pastry notes behind.

A touch of dried tobacco leaf and mulled sloe berries and meatiness. Gorgeously sweet fruit on the palate. Quince and an earthiness and a very fine seam of vanilla with a wonderful just-tooled-saddle (not sweaty!) spice note on the finish. Gentle, the texture of chamois leather on the tongue. There is a remarkable freshness and the mid palate bursts into sweet sweet cherry, just as you think it's starting to segue into dry spices. Thrilling, almost haunting, with generous persistence. So balanced. Do not spit this wine.