Riesling Rangen de Thann, Clos St Urbain, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018

Initial whiffs of flint, apple and smoke dissipate, leaving this wine with a shy, closed nose. The palate still carries residual carbon dioxide that gives a little spritz but all that is just window dressing for a powerful and concentrated core. Yes, there is concentrated lemon, both peel and pith, but a stony expanse underneath makes this profound, smoky and compelling. The finish is bone dry, bracing and racy. Lemon echoes long, carrying stony heat in its cooling breeze. 13.5%