Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère, Henri Boillot 2017

From an enclave within the premier cru Perrières, Boillot's 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère is utterly superb this year, wafting from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, mandarin orange, beeswax, iodine and subtle smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and layered, with striking volume and depth at the core, balanced by incisive acids that animate the long, mineral finish. Guillaume Boillot speculates that this monopole's comparative variety of mesoclimates and soil types lends the resulting wine greater complexity than would be the case with a small cuvée.