Pouilly Fuissé Premier Jus des Hauts de Vignes, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2018

It is hard to choose between the magical Mâcon-Pierreclos Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigne and the superb 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Jus des Hautes des Vignes—a cuvée produced from the first free juice deriving from Guffens's holdings in La Roche (which accounts for some 60% of the blend) and Les Croux—and it would be easy to anoint either as the wine of the vintage in the Mâconnais. Opening in the glass with aromas of pear, citrus oil, confit lemon, wheat toast, beeswax and petrol, it's full-bodied, textural and incisive, with a deep and concentrated core, striking levels of chalky dry extract and a long, penetrating finish. Still an infant, it will only begin to show all its cards after a decade in the cellar. Drink 2030-2050.

It is hard to choose between the magical Mâcon-Pierreclos Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigne and the superb 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Jus des Hautes des Vignes—a cuvée produced from the first free juice deriving from Guffens's holdings in La Roche (which accounts for some 60% of the blend) and Les Croux—and it would be easy to anoint either as the wine of the vintage in the Mâconnais. Opening in the glass with aromas of pear, citrus oil, confit lemon, wheat toast, beeswax and petrol, it's full-bodied, textural and incisive, with a deep and concentrated core, striking levels of chalky dry extract and a long, penetrating finish. Still an infant, it will only begin to show all its cards after a decade in the cellar.

Aromas of white flowers, almond paste, citrus oil and citrus confit introduce the 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Premiers Jus des Hautes des Vignes, a full-bodied, ample and satiny-textured wine that's immensely layered and concentrated, with striking texture and phenolic structure. Fully 60 ares yielded a mere 11 barrels. It's still very early to form a definitive judgement, but it's clear that this will be special.