Porseleinberg Syrah, Boekenhoutskloof 2022

Produced in the teeth of what Callie Louw calls a "crazy year", with lots of winter rain and one of the hottest Januaries ever, this is the latest in a series of world-class Syrahs from the brilliant Callie Louw. Fermented and aged in foudres and 15% concrete, using the submerged cap technique that has transformed the style here, this has 95% whole bunches, fynbos and Mediterranean herb aromas, sculpted, detailed tannins and layers of plum, blackberry and raspberry and impressive freshness for a wine with a pH of 4.1. A refined wine from a brutal site.2025-40

The Porseleinberg 2022 Swartland Syrah shows extra smokiness and spice. New foudre were delivered and were used for the first time in this wine. Rain was abundant at 470 milliliters (the average in these parts is 450 milliliters), and the alcohol is low at 13.3%. Drinking the 2022 now is premature, as the wine is still quite shy and restrained. A challenging ripening phase was followed by prolonged heat in January and big diurnal temperature shifts. Winemaker Callie Louw calls it "stress maturing," which results in a bigger, more muscular fruit profile with open-knit tannins and abundant fruit. Callie Louw puts a priority on exposing the character of a vintage. All man-made variables remain constant. The DNA of this particular site is reflected in the tannins of the wine. They are chalky and elegant.