Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine Comte Armand 2005

Like the 2006, this is presently brooding and even more backward with only grudging and very ripe notes of plum, spice and earth in evidence where the earthy character can also be found on the textured, velvety and mouth coating full-bodied flavors blessed by superb depth of material and so much dry extract that the finish is borderline chewy but not at all aggressive. A serious wine that will need at least 15 and probably 20 years to really be at its best but when it arrives, it should more than repay the wait. Note that in my strong opinion it is pointless to purchase this and try to enjoy it young as it really will need extended bottle age to justify the price of admission.

The 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux was still in three lots segregated by age and location of vines when I tasted - each fascinatingly delicious in itself, and the concentration of the old vines portion in itself almost too severe. Fascinating dark berry, carnal and mineral notes mingle in the nose. Low-tone sirloin meatiness, black cherry, cassis, faintly bitter black chocolate, and toasted hickory inform a glycerin-rich, polished, yet firmly structured palate. Notes of licorice, horehound, and mineral salts add complexity to a finish of palate-staining intensity and grip. This superb Pommard should require 5-7 years of cellaring and reward considerably more. Young Benjamin Leroux took over in 1999 from Pascal Marchand (who made this estate's modern reputation), and the wines have never tasted better, nor more ageworthy. The domaine has also continued to grow - through purchase and rental - beyond their famous 13 acre core property, the Clos des Epeneaux. The wines had never been racked when I tasted them - that will only happen when they are assembled for bottling (unfiltered) - so allowance must be made for slight reduction.