Pichon Baron 2003

Well-shaded crimson. Shaded ripe fruit. Rather subtle and savoury and very dense. Hot finish though. (Average group score: 17.1)

In 2003, Pichon-Baron produced its highest-scoring wine since its 1989 (98 points), which was Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year in 1992. The '03 shows gobs of ripe fruit, and the price is a lot less intimidating than those of the château's first-growth Pauillac neighbors. Managing director Christian Seely called Pichon-Baron a "sleeping beauty" when AXA Millésimes bought it in 1986. Thanks to significant investments in the vineyards and the chai, the beauty has been awake for some time now. 14,000 cases made.

Archetypal, rich, muscular Pauillac.

This is a brilliantly run property year in and year out, and especially since the mid- to late 1980s has produced one of the top four or five wines made in Pauillac in virtually every vintage. With 13.4% alcohol, the 2003 is one of the most powerful efforts this chateau has ever made. Its dense purple color is accompanied by sweet, jammy creme de cassis notes intermixed with roasted herbs, smoked meats, and chocolate. Although ripe, dense, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, it is silky (because of its low acidity and high glycerin) as well as accessible. It should firm up in the bottle, and be at its peak between 2008-2025.

A powerful, concentrated wine with an inky ruby/purple color to the rim and high alcohol (13.46%), this low-acid, fat, fleshy wine shows notes of incense, smoke, creme de cassis, and vanilla in a pure, rich, noble, yet corpulent, full-bodied style that could possibly pass as New World Cabernet given its low acidity and forward style. I have no reservations about how it is going to age as there is plenty of stuffing and density to this impressively endowed wine. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2023.

Reminiscent of Pichon Baron’s triumphant 1990, the 2003 is powerful and alcoholic (13.46%) for a cru classe Bordeaux, with a high pH of 3.85, and low acidity (3.1). Made from 31 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot exhibits an inky/purple color along with a big, thick, juicy nose of soy sauce, blackberries, creme de cassis, minerals, and flowers. Full-bodied and powerful, with terrific fruit purity as well as depth, this beauty should become increasingly delineated as it evolves in barrel. The finish lasts for 45+ seconds. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2025

Flamboyant. Full-bodied, with big velvety and wild fruit. Outrageous. This is one of the greatest bottles I have ever tasted from here. Like the 1989 or 1990. I can’t get over it. It’s really exciting.

Much deeper than Pichon Lalande. The sexual stereotyping of the Pichons is alive and well in 2003. This is quite savoury and beefy on the nose. With good compact fruit, this wine seemed relatively concentrated when tasted immediately after Pichon Lalande. Pretty impressive! Lots of impact here though no excessive heat or ripeness. Still quite a charge of fine tannins but there seems to be quite enough fruit to hold the wine while the tannins subside. And there’s even some freshness on the finish.

Lovely round appetising, glamorous glossy wine with great kick of refreshment glorying in its ripeness rather than apologizing for it. Very well done.