Pichon Baron 1990

The 1990 Pichon-Longueville Baron has always been one of my benchmark wines, one that never ceases to perform. Now at 27 years of age, it is clearly at its peak, and what a wondrous thing it is. Now showing some bricking on the rim, the bouquet is utterly sublime, with red berries, cedar, touches of graphite, crushed rose petals and incense. You just want to become enveloped by these aromas. The palate is perfectly balanced, perhaps not as structured as it once showed since the tannins have mellowed, but what you get is a Pauillac relishing its secondary phase, which is almost Burgundy-like in terms of mouthfeel. Suffused with tension, it gains weight in the mouth toward the slightly tart finish. It is a Pichon Baron that only knows how to give sophisticated drinking pleasure. I once wrote that Pichon Baron is better than many 1990 First Growth, and that is a statement I have no reason to change. Drink 2017-2035.

A remarkable vintage for Pichon Longueville Baron, 1990 is one of this estate's two or three finest wines made in the last 40 years. Still inky/blue/purple-tinged to the rim, it reveals an extraordinary bouquet of charcoal, incense, creme de cassis, blue and black fruits, and a hint of licorice as well as an impressively long finish. While drinkable, its evolution is extremely slow, and I would not be surprised to see it last another two decades or more. Drink 2009-2029.

Beautifully rich, enticing, soft tannins, a lovely old Paullac that you can sink into. Love this wine, shows plenty of structure but zero hard edges. The fruits are mellow at this point, fig, wild strawberry, leather and undergrowth. A huge yield by modern standards of 70hl/h, and at the time at least 70% would have gone into the 1st wine (but Pichon Baron was smaller at the time, and the vast majority of this wine would have come from the same deep gravel terrace that the 1st wine comes from today).

One of the finest values in top-class Bordeaux has been the 1990 Pichon-Longueville-Baron. Until 3-4 months ago, the wine could have been purchased for under $400 a case, but that seems to have changed as the results of numerous tastings have pushed the price upward. I originally gave a one point preference to the 1989, and I am still convinced that ultimately that wine will last longer and hit a higher peak of pleasure than the 1990, but, wow, the 1990 is showing great. Both the 1989 and 1990 vintages exhibit opaque, dense purple colors that suggest massive wines of considerable extraction and richness. The 1990 Pichon-Longueville-Baron exhibits more of the roasted overripeness of this vintage, but it manages to keep everything in perspective. The wine is opulent and flamboyant, with lower acidity, and noticeably less tannin than the 1989. It is equally concentrated, with a more evolved nose of cedar, black fruits, earth, minerals, and spices. On the palate, the wine offers sensational quantities of jammy fruit, glycerin, wood, and sweet tannin. It is far more fun to taste and drink (more hedonistic perhaps?) than the more structured, backward, yet exceptional 1989. Ideally, readers should have both vintages in their cellars. The 1990 can be drunk now as well as over the next 25+ years