Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2009

The 2009 Clos des Goisses has been very tight in two recent tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but less so for readers seeking the immediacy that is common in so many 2009 Champagnes. White flowers, orchard fruit, mint white pepper and citrus peel add to the wine’s bright profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2018.

69% Pinot Noir nd 31% Chardonnay. Disgorged March 2018. 4.5g/l. Definitely not austere. No malo. Really quite rich. Some real development on the nose! Really rich and pungent on the palate. The opposite of mouthwash! Some meat extract notes on the nose, Tight tiny bead and very dry, slightly bruised apple finish. Definitely a food champagne... A bit less barrel fermentation than usual - just 37% - presumably because of the richness of the vintage. Very long and reverberant. There is definitely richness here and I could imaging this standing up to a wide range of meat dishes. Creamy morel sauce with guinea fowl. 19,000 bottles made. Rich but not sweet.

The 2009 Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut is composed of two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay. This is a big and powerful vintage with a savory character and dark red fruit (black cherries, raspberries), floral (elderflowers), yeasty, white chocolate and delicate citrus notes on the deep, spicy, very pure and mineral nose. On the palate, this is a complex, highly elegant, finessed and balanced Clos that Charles compares with 1998 in terms of flavors, depth and structure. The 2009 is super delicate right now and is already drinking beautifully, but the it will even improve and receive new dimensions with bottle age. Disgorged in March 2018. Tasted April 2018.