Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2006

The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much?

Firm straw colour. Really distinctive nose – rather minerally and intense. Soars out of the glass. The bead is just a little coarse and the wine positively screams for attention. Although the dosage is so low, the wine actually tastes quite rich, although it finishes very firmly and dry. A really personality-laden wine. A whole percentage point more potent than most. Kerpow!