Ormes de Pez 2006

Somewhat herbaceous but round and sensual, with sweet cherry and cassis fruit as well as hints of incense and damp earth, this is an up-front, precociously styled St.-Estephe to drink over the next decade.

The 2006 Château Les Ormes de Pez has a slightly dusty, earthy bouquet that is typical Saint Estèphe. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannin, mulberry and red plum notes, with hints of sage and cooked meat towards the finish; though a subsequent bottle demonstrated less of that distracting dustiness on the nose and also better weight on the palate.

Dark crimson with a slightly weak rim. Heady, gamey, not quite pure on the nose. Rather tired fruit - no directness, a bit heavy and lacking definition. More freshness, please - not a common complaint in 2006.

The nose has a ripeness about it; the mix of black and red fruits is sweet, the tannins are supple giving a fleshy richness to the finish.