Oberhauser Brucke Beerenauslese, Weingut Dönnhoff 2006

The 2006 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Beerenauslese is far more viscous, oily, and honeyed than the corresponding Auslese; the raspberries have candified now, and there is a gaudy gaggle of tropical fruits partying loudly as if just next door. The seamless purity of the Auslese, for all of that wine's energy, seems almost meditative in comparison, but all the more remarkable for it. Still, this prodigious elixir is every bit as citric, bright and penetrating as the Auslese and as it matures over the coming half century it may well reveal not only further facets, but also its underlying principle of organization. Right now, one can only be in awe of its sheer energy and concentration