Nuits St Georges Les Cailles, Domaine Robert Chevillon 2017

As is virtually always the case, this is more aromatically elegant and spicier and in 2017 the nose of essence of raspberry, cherry, violet and soft herbal tea notes is also notably spicier. There is excellent richness and a highly beguiling vibrancy to the well-detailed and stony medium-bodied flavors that deliver a lovely combination of punch and finesse on the sneaky long finish. In sum, this beautifully well-balanced effort is Zen-like.

Chevillon's low-yielding 80-year-old vines have produced a terrific 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles that ranks among the range's high points, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of ripe cherries, dried flowers, candied peel and peonies. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety with a deep, multidimensional core, beautiful purity of fruit and a long, expansive finish. Stylistically, Les Cailles is one of the most elegant wines in the range.