Niederhauser Hermannshohle Spatlese, Weingut Dönnhoff 2010

Alluring scents of sweet honeysuckle, musky peony, and smoky black tea waft from the glass of this wine, then follow inner-mouth in a display of richness and palpable density yet striking buoyancy, backed by fresh lime and white peach, nut oils and stone serving as underpinnings and subtle salinity fo saliva-inducement. "This year, abnormally," notes Donnhoff, "the Hermannshohle achieved some of the acid retention and energy usually more characteristic of the Brucke." This gem should be worth following for over two decades.

Pale golden yellow. Tantalizing aromas of papaya, cherry, sweet herbs and tobacco. Discreet but intense cherry fruit rises from the mid-palate, brightened by brilliant acidity. This lusciously spicy sp a tlese finishes deep and long. I may be underrating this.