Mouton Rothschild 2018

This has incredible persistency and density of flavour in 2018. It’s extremely well knitted with everything drawn out and taut through the mid palate, slowly layering on the succulent, plump notes of damson, juice-filled blackberries, charcoal, menthol, cigar box, pencil lead and black chocolate that is a signature of the vintage. I always love that this property shares the same gravel-filled plateau as Lafite and yet the two have such different personalities and interpretations of vintages – with Mouton here absorbing the richness of the year and adding a touch of glamour into the wine as always. The alcohol, while still very balanced compared to most in the vintage, is unusually high at Mouton because, as managing director Philippe Dhalluin says; ‘usually the poor soils at Mouton mean the grapes make tannins but not sugar, but in 2018 they made both’. There is the tiniest touch of Petit Verdot in the blend but under 1% so it’s not in the official figures. 100% new oak which has been beautifully integrated. 62% of production went into the grand vin. 3.78pH. 88IPT. The artist design for the 2018 label will be revealed later.

Tasted blind. Another wine that’s also heady and rich but tightens up on the finish. Classy though it’s a tiny bit drying on the end. But there’s a lot of pleasure there. Refined and very long. 14%Drink 2028 – 2048

86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Barrel sample. Black core with purple rim. Pure, perfectly ripe and lightly spiced cassis. Perfect Cabernet Sauvignon with a nice touch of cassis leaf to freshen the aroma – invitingly perfumed. On the palate, much more freshness than on the Petit Mouton, the tannins slimmer and finer even if they are compact and very present. Chewy, generous in fruit, big but harmonious. Structured and deep and so much more to come. (JH)Drink 2028-2048

(86 Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 Merlot, 2 Cabernet Franc) | 13.8% alc There is an immediate volley of class on the nose of this distinguished wine and it introduces its leather and graphite details up front. This is certainly not a Cabernet show in spite of the dominance of this grape in the cépage because the Merlot is present throughout and this brings welcome complexity and tonal variation to the whole. Succulent and sumptuous, this is a heady Mouton with a long, cool finish and it is in very good shape overall. Honed and polished, 2018 Mouton is true to type.

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild is blessed with a glorious and extremely pure bouquet of blackberry, wild strawberries, touches of blueberry and pressed violets, almost Margaux-like in style. As usual, the new oak is seamlessly integrated. There is an undercurrent of exoticism here, but it is very discreet and never overshadows the DNA of Mouton. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a fine line of acidity and layers of opulent black fruit. This is one of the more extravagant Mouton-Rothschilds in recent years, a little sweeter on the finish compared to the previous two vintages, yet maintaining freshness and tension. It will be irresistible in its youth, although it will benefit from a decade in bottle. 2026-2060

I am a little bit speechless about this one. I have not seen such earthy and totally deep character of the soil in a young Mouton in my career. Of course, I didn’t taste 1945 or 1959 when they were young, but I have been lucky enough to have a few bottles in my life. There is really terroir-driven character to this. Layered and so intense with polished and incredible tannins.

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is composed of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc—there is also a splash of all the Petit Verdot they had, but it doesn’t even register in the percentage. Grapes were harvested September 10 to October 3, and the wine was blended at the beginning of December; it has 13.8% alcohol, and the tannins were slightly higher this year. Deep purple-black in color, it is a little closed to begin compared to some 2018s, slowly unfurling to reveal a profound nose of warm black plums, blackcurrant cordial, star anise, blueberry pie and mocha with suggestions of candied violets, oolong tea, camphor and unsmoked cigars plus a touch of crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers waves of opulent, spiced black and blue fruits with seamless acid lifting this gorgeous mouthfeel that is at once plush from the ripe fruit and firm and grainy from the super ripe tannins, finishing very long and wonderfully creamy.

Representing 76% of the total production, the 2018 Mouton-Rothschild checks in as 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc brought up in new oak. The most backward and reserved of the First Growths, this deeply colored beauty boasts a rich, layered bouquet of blackcurrants, graphite, scorched earth, and liquid violets. Deep, full-bodied, and seamless on the palate, it's more elegant than the opulently styled 2016, but it’s still an incredibly powerful and promising Mouton that’s going to live for half a century or more.