Morey Saint Denis Clos de la Bussière, Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier 2012

The 2012 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussieres has a perfumed bouquet with a high mineral content: tight at first but unfolding with time, darker berry fruit mingling with incense. The palate is medium-bodied with entrancing energy and superb structure on the entry. Slightly more masculine than I was expecting, it has a stern but compelling finish that leaves you utterly satisfied. This has stupendous potential once in bottle.

**Note: a monopole of the domaine**A brooding but well-layered nose combines notes of both red and dark currants, earth, floral tones and a hint of the sauvage. The rich and unusually supple medium-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration before culminating in a more refined finish than usual that delivers excellent length and only a trace of rusticity. I have said this several times recently but since 2009 this wine has become noticeably more interesting.