Malescot Saint Exupéry 2023

One of the most suave, classy vintages from this estate in some years, the 2023 Malescot St. Exupery is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, berries, licorice and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with good depth at the core, supple tannins and a harmonious, integrated profile. Part of the blend is maturing in foudre.

The 2023 Malescot Saint Exupéry was cropped at 38hL/ha, picked a day later than the previous year. Lea Zuger told me that they now use six foudres installed in November, meaning there is 60% new oak—less than other vintages. Barrel-maturation will be 14 to 16 months. Whereas in 2022, nearly all the estate’s fruit went into the Grand Vin, this year it represents 75% of the volume. Displaying blackberry and briar on the nose, this demands some coaxing from the glass. There’s just a light, confit-like aroma in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine structure, slightly powdery tannins, modest weight and noticeably fresh acidity and salinity, the latter especially prominent toward the finish. More classically hewn compared to the 2022, this will require five or six years in bottle. Classy.

The 2023 Château Malescot St.-Exupéry remains charming and approachable, revealing aromas of cassis, violet, dark berries and pepper, seamlessly integrated with oak. Medium- to full-bodied, rich and dense, it is built around a sapid, enveloping core of fruit, framed by velvety tannins and concluding with a delicately fresh, licorice-inflected finish. The blend—58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot—was matured for the first time partly in foudres, complemented by 60% new oak. Drink 2026-2056.

This has a very deep and beautiful palate with cherries, chocolate, hazelnut and orange peel. Pretty blackcurrants and blue berries, too. Medium body. The finish has gorgeous al-dente fruit at the end and is always subtle. Open tannins. A blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, and 5% petit verdot.