Léoville Poyferré 1996

Particularly deep crimson. Very dark. Sophisticated and subtle on the nose. Some liquorice. Mouth-filling but no compromises. Very dry as opposed to sweet. Lots there - rewarding. Finishes a bit like sucking on a stone. Drink 2008-20

This fabulous 1996 was tasted three times from bottle, and it is unquestionably the finest wine produced by this estate since their blockbuster 1990. Medium to full-bodied, with a saturated black/purple color, the nose offers notes of cedar, jammy black fruits, smoke, truffles, and subtle new oak. In the mouth, there is impressive fruit extraction, a tannic, full-bodied structure, and a classic display of power and finesse. The longer it sat in the glass, the more impressive the wine became. Backward, and massive in terms of its extract and richness, this should prove to be a sensational Leoville-Poyferre for drinking over the next three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2028.

Extremely closed and backward, but so impressive, the 1996 is a wine that should be purchased only by patient Bordeaux connoisseurs. The 1996 offers a dark, dense ruby/purple color, followed by a reluctant but promising nose of cassis, licorice, spicy oak, and minerals. Powerful and medium to full-bodied with high tannin but a sensational finish (35+ seconds), this deep, serious, uncompromising claret will require a decade of cellaring. It is a brilliant wine, but long-term aging is warranted.