Léoville Barton 2004

This is an impressively endowed vin de garde that should age effortlessly for 20-30 years. How Anthony Barton continues to fashion uncompromisingly primordial Bordeaux that are always among the biggest and densest of all the St.-Juliens is beyond me, but he does it year in and year out. Moreover, when it’s time to set the price, he appears to have the consumer foremost in his mind. The 2004 is a classic Leoville-Barton meant for long aging. Concentrated, with loads of smoke, creme de cassis, forest floor, and earthy notes emerge from this impressive, but oh, so backward wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030+.

Currant and dark chocolate, with hints of mineral. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, caressing finish. Balanced. A more delicate and refined style. Best after 2011.

Quite deep crimson. Some sweet oak on the nose. A little bit raw then very loose on the palate with slightly fake cherry jam flavours. Tannins very fine. A lot of work in the chai, I think. But ultimately not the noblest expression of either appellation or vintage.

Complex nose of perfumed dark fruit along with a meaty note. Reasonably firm and young on the palate, not giving much away even now but very well balanced and already showing its elegance. Rich and a little chewy at the end and good length. Drink 2011-2019. Date tasted 17th Feb 09.