Léoville Barton 1990

Believe it or not, the 1990 Leoville Barton can actually be drunk - something that cannot be said about the broodingly backward, still excruciatingly tannic 1982. The exceptionally concentrated 1990 reveals more polished, sweeter tannins along with a big, sweet kiss of black currant, forest floor, cedar, and spice box notes. While it still has some tannins to shed, this full-bodied, powerful, long wine is approachable. It should continue to evolve for another two decades.

Very dark crimson. Sweet and lush and gamey. Not very Barton. More 1990 - a vintage whose lush velvety character almost invariably asserts itself over terroir and man. Lovely wine though. Drink 2000-2014. Date tasted 22nd Sep 08.

In contrast to the 1989, the 1990 is denser, more tannic, muscular, and virile. It offers an opaque purple color, but not much charm or openness. The nose reluctantly offers up aromas of earth, spicy fruit, and wood. The wine is full-bodied, powerful, and loaded with extract and glycerin. However, it is also revealing formidable quantities of tannin, as well as a closed, backward style. This is somewhat perplexing in view of previous tastings of this wine. I still believe the 1990 to be an exceptional Leoville-Barton, certainly the best wine made after the 1982, and marginally superior to both the delicious 1985 and tannic 1986. However, it needs another 7-10 years of cellaring. In its youth, it is one of the least approachable 1990s. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025.