Le Pin 2019

Tasted blind. Cool and fresh and savoury with a certain treacly intensity. Slightly sandy, drying tannins on the end. In a minor key compared with some of the greats. But quite subtle and satisfying. 14.5%Drink 2027– 2043

A classic Le Pin in its exuberant, kinky, sexy, almost over-ripe style, the 2019 Château Le Pin offers a monster nose of black cherry liqueur, red plums, tobacco leaf, mocha, orange peel, and violets. Truly exotic and one of a kind, it hits the palate with a powerful, full-bodied, opulent yet seamless mouthfeel that carries ample tannic grip, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a great finish. It has some elevated volatile acidity and won't be for everyone, but this exotic, dry port-like Merlot needs a good 5-7 years of bottle age and will drink well for 20-25 years.

The deep purple-black colored 2019 Le Pin sweeps effortlessly out of the glass with fragrant scents of black cherries, licorice, and plum preserves, giving way to fragrant notes of violets, licorice, dark chocolate, and cardamom with a touch of Sichuan pepper. Full-bodied, rich, and seductive, the palate delivers a seamless foundation of exquisitely fine-grained tannins and just enough freshness, finishing very long and with a whole fireworks display of minerals and flowers - so much energy!

The 2019 Le Pin is a Pomerol that I did not taste out of barrel when samples were being sent, so the first time I encountered it was with Jacques Thienpont in his office, together with his new right hand, Diana Berrouet-Garcia. It has a fragrant nose of brambly red fruit, touches of sous-bois and hints of dark chocolate emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, moderate weight and a touch of black pepper and clove, the former becoming more prominent toward the finish. Cohesive throughout; perhaps the alcohol (14.7°) blurs a little of the definition, but this still feels reassuringly long and sensual. Gorgeous. 2025 - 2050

Speaking to co-proprietor Fiona Morrison, she told me that they preferred not to send samples of Le Pin this year, which I quite understand, and promised that I could taste it later in the year along with a complete vertical back to 1979. The second bit is a lie, but I will taste their 2019, hopefully in September.