Le Pin 1998

A beautifully made, dark ruby/garnet/plum-colored wine, the full-bodied 1998 Le Pin offers an exotic bouquet of coconut, kirsch, and jammy blackberries, all flamboyantly dosed with smoky new oak. It is dense, rich, and plush, with a good tannic framework. At one time, Le Pin was the most exotic wine from Bordeaux's right bank, but there is now considerable competition from all the new St.-Emilion upstarts. While this remains an outstanding, often compelling Pomerol, many far less expensive, equally prodigious alternatives have emerged. Anticipated maturity: now-2018. Last tasted, 9/02.

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1998 Le Pin has always been a bit of a lush. The bouquet is sexy and very candied: crème de cassis, crushed violets, blueberries and incense. This is a seductive Pomerol that wants to skip small talk and go back to yours for coffee. The palate is sensual, velvety smooth, rounded and plush. It is like a slow-mo explosion of blue and black fruit, perhaps a little generous with the vanillary new oak although that is being subsumed as the wine ages. The 1998 Le Pin is the Mrs. Robinson of the vintage. 2018 - 2035

Muted, shaded colour. Brûlée edge – more comfortable and relaxed than wine 8. Some might find this a bit sweet and plump and overdeveloped. Very evolved and hedonistic. Quite long. Delicate and nuanced. Strawberries. But already quite open. Almost too much.