Laforge 2009

From proprietor Jonathan Maltus, this blend of three terroirs, two on sand and one on gravel, is a blend of 92% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. About 2,000 cases are produced, and the prodigious 2009 is the finest vintage to date. Inky blue/purple, with notes of licorice, camphor, black truffle, blackberry and blueberry, this full-bodied wine has massive concentration yet at the same time displays elegance and harmony. The equilibrium and 60+-second length make for a huge, massive, but incredibly well-balanced wine, like a shadow of the proprietor himself. Drink it over the next 15 or more years.

Picked between 30th September and 8th October, the Cabernet Franc on 10th October, a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, this has an inviting, silky, very pure, glossy bouquet with black cherry, boysenberry, a touch of creme de menthe and a touch of cassis. Good definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm grip, yet the tannins are quite fine if robust, a chalky texture to the finish, just missing a little length on the aftertaste, the tannins just a little raw. Tasted March 2010.

Blackberry and dark chocolate aromas follow through to a full body, with supersilky tannins and a beautiful finish with just a hint of coffee. Best ever?

Generous, fleshy fruit. Very Merlot. Has the opulence of the vintage but with tannic grip for a slightly more serious feel. Drink 2014-2024.