Lafleur 1998

This wines was incredibly tannic and backward from cask, but out of bottle it has shrugged off the excess tannin and seems to be developing far better than I thought it would. The color is dense/rub purple, and the wine shows notes of sweet kirsch and blackberry liqueur, with a liquid minerality and a hint of violets. The wine is full-bodied, quite tannic, very dense and backward, but gorgeously concentrated, pure, and intense. This looks to be a classic Lafleur, meant for significantlong-term ageing. Anticipated maturity 2015-2040+.

The 1998 Lafleur has been biding its time since it exited from barrel and is now just beginning to flex its muscles. The wonderful bouquet has finally opened with complex red berry fruit, wild hedgerow, truffle and Earl Grey scents that are beautifully defined, opulent yet wonderfully controlled. That translates across onto the palate, which is deep and opulent compared to, say, the 2000, yet exhibits real panache and style. This is structured, yet time is abrading its austerity after 27 years to reveal a compelling white pepper- and mineral-infused finish that is sensual and harmonious. The 1998 is utterly sublime and destined for a long drinking window. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon's 40-Year vertical in Austria. 2026 - 2055

Paler than most. Much more familiar Pomerol nose than its three precedents 1-3. Lively, rich, quite mineral on the palate with vivacious transparence. But it’s more developed than most. Quite long. Not a great bottle.

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1998 Lafleur has long been an excellent wine although here, compared directly to Le Pin and Petrus, it must suffice with a bronze medal. It has a disarming peppery bouquet with very expressive Cabernet Franc, perhaps spicier than a few years ago, a faint vein of Valrhona chocolate in the background. The palate is governed by firm tannins and it comes across as edgy and moody, to wit, a "gangster" Lafleur, so temperamental! It feels tightly coiled at first but then eases up towards the grippy finish with Earl Grey plus a light charcoal note lingering on the aftertaste. It is a fascinating, multi-faceted Pomerol that is charting its own course. By that I mean that it could turn into a legendary 1998 or it could remain a curmudgeon its entire life. Only time will tell. 2018 - 2050