Lafleur 1989

The 1989 Lafleur is now asserting itself as the best of the 1988/19889/1990 triumvirate, and that means it is very good. The bouquet is utterly entrancing from first acquaintance, with effervescent and multi-faceted brambly red fruit, black truffle, earthenware and light roasted chestnut scents—quintessential Pomerol. The palate has plenty of concentration, though the passing years have tempered that, smoothing the tannins and manifesting a cornucopia of secondary dried blood and chestnut notes. I cannot remember bottles being quite as elegant as this magnum, and the peacock's tail on the finish is something to behold. Utterly sublime. Tasted from ex-château magnum at Kate & Kon's 40-year vertical in Austria. 2025 - 2060

I am almost always in awe of Lafleur and this is one of the best. This is so subtle at first, but then the enchanting aromas of olive leaves, ivy, licorice, tar and treacle wash over you. In your mouth it's as if you're putting exquisite, dusty velvet inside; the tannins make this wine round, fat and encompassing. Perhaps most startling of all is the freshness retained over the years despite the intense, dense fruit. It allows not only for a chewy finish, but one that makes you want to drink more. This has reached a plateau now and is perfect for drinking, though its tightly-knit structure implies yet more potential cellaring. I've always been a believer in the 1989 vintage, and Lafleur is one of the best. Decant two hours in advance. 99 points.

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1989 Lafleur was perhaps the real surprise of a memorable evening of wine. What comes across on the nose is the detail, the precision with pure black fruit, crushed minerals, subtle floral scents and a palpable sense of energy. It evolves in the glass, later revealing smoke, Italian cured meats and a touch of bay leaf. The palate is simply crystalline with pitch perfect acidity, astonishing precision and laser-like focus that takes your breath away. I have never encountered a 1989 Lafleur with this detail and clarity, a wine that seems to improve every time I encounter it, which is regrettably once in a blue moon. Whilst I do not think the 1989 will surpass the 1982 Lafleur, my God, it is coming damn close. 2018 - 2035