La Gomerie 2005

From a tiny (under 7 acres) vineyard planted with 32-year-old, 100% Merlot vines, La Gomerie is one of the more hedonistic, opulent/flamboyant wines of Bordeaux. Yet it is capable of lasting for 10-15 or more years. The well-known Michel Rolland has been the longtime consultant, and the 2005 ranks alongside the brilliant 2000. It boasts an intense perfume of black cherries, blackberries, roasted coffee, melted licorice, chocolate, and espresso. Full-bodied, dense, and huge, it is clearly a modern-styled St.-Emilion, but because of the vintage’s high acidity and firm tannins, it is more classic than such hedonistic years as 2000 or 1998. This stunner should drink nicely young, yet age for 15 or more years.

One of the All-Star garage operations, this 100% Merlot cuvee from a 6-acre, 32-year old vineyard is a consistently exotic/flamboyant St.-Emilion that some of the wine world’s reactionaries presumably find too tasty and over-the-top. The deep purple-hued 2005 (1,000 cases produced; 14.5% natural alcohol) may turn out to be La Gomerie’s finest effort to date, and certainly rivals the 2000. It offers an exotic perfume of jammy blackberries, kirsch liqueur, melted licorice, and roasted coffee. Fruit, glycerin, and massive extract conceal a touch of sweet oak, and the wine cascades over the palate with magnificent layers of glycerin and richness. This huge, rich, impeccably well-balanced St.-Emilion possesses remarkable freshness and delineation. It will be irresistible young as it should not close down after bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020+.