Krug 1998

The 1998 Vintage is extremely primary at this stage. Today the wine remains mostly about a pure, unadulterated expression of fruit, but the Krug house style is nevertheless present. This powerful Champagne needs time in the cellar to develop its full range of aromas and flavors, but it is impressive and should age quite well. The 1998 is only the third (and last) vintage Krug declared in the 1990s. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028.

Gorgeous aromas of lemon, peach, toast, leather and spices. Theattack is rich and forceful, backed by a racy structure that keepsit pure and drives the finish. Perhaps not as expansive on the aftertasteto match the attack, but long nonetheless, with spice andminerals lingering. Still needs time. Best from 2012 through 2035.

Very firm, very '8' (almost reminiscent of 1988 in its slightly austerity on the nose). Tightly laced - actually on the palate it is much much richer than the 1988 was at this stage - really very approachable and attractive. More obvious pzazz than the 1995 at this early stage. Creamy - embroidered somehow and very dense and layered. I like it! Date tasted 13th Feb 09.

Vivid gold. Deeply pitched aromas of candied citrus fruits, pear skin, peach, anise and smoky herbs, with slow-building florality. Toasty and broad, showing impressive power and focus to its ripe orange and pit fruit flavors. Brighter on the finish, which hangs on with excellent tenacity and leaves behind notes of candied nuts, flowers and citrus pith. This Champagne has loosened up a bit since I tasted it last year and is showing more complexity, but it still deserves some patience, or at least an hour of air.