Hermitage Rouge, J-L Chave 1988

And lastly, the 1988 Hermitage is an elegant, perfumed and mineral-laced effort that's drinking at point. Giving up plenty of sweet cherry and red currants, leather, crushed rock and hints of green olive, it has no hard edges, solid mid-palate richness and a focused finish. It's a mature, elegant and classy Hermitage to drink over the coming 4-5 years.

A vintage that really expresses its granite core, framed by strict, upright tannins and bright acidity. This is a highly structural Hermitage, with vibrant cherry fruits. Unlikely to improve as such, but no hurry to drink. Pair with 60-day-aged beef and soy sauce.