Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne Multi-Vintage BV17

The golden colour is unusual. The nose immediately reveals its oak vinification with rich tones of vanilla streaked with melted butter. The palate then pits this buttery, rounded, mellow richness against a profoundly mouth-watering vein of saltiness and freshness. This is a game of juxtaposition, of contrast that actually really works out. Very appetising.

This is so precise and tight with sharp acidity and very fine, tiny bubbles. Yet, it’s rich in flavors with a broad array of hazelnuts, salted lemons, crushed chalk and hints of wild herbs and flowers. White grapefruit, too. Textured and sleek, almost creamy, while remaining mouthwateringly fresh. Drink or hold. June 2022.

Made from 100% Grand Cru Aÿ fruit – 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay – with 66% coming from the 2017 vintage. The balance is taken from a perpetual reserve that dates back to 1990. It sees a huge amount of oak, and this forest of staves forms the backdrop to this extraordinary performance. Deep gold in colour, there is a staggeringly full nose of brioche and panettone over an orange zest palate, and toasted almond notes come at you from all angles. The finish is thrillingly long with amazingly bold oak-smoke details. There is an air of luxury here that verges on the gastronomic as opposed to the vinous, and I swear I can detect notes of foie gras and roast chicken jus! I left a small amount of wine in the bottle with a stopper and tasted it a week later – it was incredible. Still sparkling, densely perfumed, hugely impactful and massively rich. If you love the wines of Salon, Selosse, Krug, Egly and other mighty Houses, then you will adore the intense fanfare of flavours that accompanies a bottle of Henri Giraud Champagne. 19/20 (Drink now – 2030)