Haut Batailley 2017

The first year under the Cazes family, and we can expect big changes over the next few years with an extensive replanting programme planned. But for now, let's look at 2017, where production has been split 33% second wine and 66% grand vin, with no frost to hamper them. It's rich and deep, with a sense of forward motion and flexible tannins pushing the cassis fruit from start to finish, joined by focussed and lively brambled fruits and gentle cedar smoking. The austerity is clear, and it's a little lighter-framed than the Lynch Bages, and very different in personality, but it has real promise and I like it enormously. Expect a new label with the Tour d'Aspic tower and the JM Cazes family name. 60% new oak.Drinking Window 2025 - 2036

Spicy, moreish Cabernet fruit, the tannins firm but already smooth. Dark and spicy on the nose, relatively closed at the moment but the sample is cool. Really fine texture, so elegant. Beautifully fresh and juicy, sustained too and dark-fruited on the finish. Fine balance and fruit intensity. Drink 2027-2040

The fruit on the nose is bright and fresh spring violets the start of the palate has bilberry and black currant. Depth in the middle the fruit sweet and ripe rich at the back with a fresh streak on the finish. Drink 2025 - 2037.

The 2017 Haut Batailley, which is matured in 60% new oak for 18 months, is clearly more sophisticated than the second wine, polished by the oak of course but underneath its intense blackberry and boysenberry fruit, quite floral with touches of violet and iris. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, well-integrated oak and very smooth polished finish that glides across the mouth. There is fine precision on the finish. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink 2020 - 2032.

This is very structured and serious. Full-bodied, tannic and powerful. Boom. This is one of the best Haut-Batailleys in years. From the new owners, who also own Lynch-Bages.

Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Haut Batailley sings of baked blackberries, black cherry compote and warm cassis with hints of fungi and tilled soil. Medium-bodied, the palate is packed with black fruit flavors and loads of earthy accents, framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing savory. Drink 2021-2037.