Haut Batailley 2010

Very good depth of elegant Cabernet fruit and lovely fragrance and lift, a perfectly poised Haut-Batailley. Drink 2015-25.

This is always the most St.-Julien-like of the Pauillacs (although occasionally Pichon-Lalande possesses a suave, St.-Julian character and less power than many Pauillacs). The dark ruby/purple-hued 2010 reveals sweet aromas of red and black currants, cedar and spicy background oak. It is an attractive, elegant, mid-weight wine with polished tannins as well as a restrained style. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.

Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux 2010 tasting. The Haut Batailley was surly and did not want to play game upon first acquaintance: very closed on the nose, anonymous and needing more fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe black dusty fruit, moderate acidity but a rather dour, conservative finish that lacks a little vigour and length. Returning after a few minutes, it begins to come together and is far more convincing and affirming the performance out of barrel. Phew! Lock this down in the cellar for another four or five years. Tasted January 2014.

Moving on from the Lacoste Borie 2010, the Haut-Batailley immediately displays more fruit intensity on the nose with blackberry, graphite, flint and dried pressed flowers. It is well defined and blossoms with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and crisp brambly black fruit laced with graphite and a touch of cracked black pepper. It is a "classic" Haut-Batailley for sure, foursquare and beautifully balanced with a refined, rather aristocratic finish. Very fine. Tasted November 2012.

The Haut-Batailley '10 is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot. It has what you might describe as a very "natural" bouquet with wild blackberry, raspberry, just a touch of pencil lead and wet limestone. Not an intense nose, but very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with very precise tannins, good acidity, just a little hardness at the front-palate, but this will soften. The backbone is very impressive, the finish very masculine, classic, the Cabernet Sauvignon dominating and imparting great purity and expression of terroir. Superb. As always, one of Pauillac's over-looked gems. Drink 2017-2040. Tasted March 2011.

An impressive intensity of fruit here with blueberries and lemon character. Full and very well-integrated, with ultra-fine tannins and a long, long finish. Better than 2000?