Gruaud Larose 1986

Still tasting as if it were only 7-8 years of age, the dense, garnet/purple-colored 1986 Gruaud Larose is evolving at a glacial pace. The wine still has mammoth structure, tremendous reserves of fruit and concentration, and a finish that lasts close to a minute. The wine is massive, very impressively constituted, with still some mouth-searing tannin to shed. Decanting of one to two hours in advance seems to soften it a bi, but this is a wine that seems to be almost immortal in terms of its longevity. It is a great Médoc classic and certainly one of the most magnificent Gruaud Larose ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2035.

Still remarkably youthful, my most recent bottle of the 1986 Gruaud Larose exhibited an impressively opaque hue, followed by aromas of blackcurrants, cigar ash, loamy soil, pencil shavings and subtle hints of smoked meats. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's a rich but tightly wound wine, with a deep core of fruit, lively acids and an abundance of powdery structuring tannin. Incredible as it may seem, it's comparatively advanced bottles of this 1986 that are drinking best today, as pristinely stored examples with perfect corks are still almost painfully youthful. Drink 2018-2045.

There seems to be no doubt about the quality of the 1986 Gruaud-Larose, which in 20 years should rival the extraordinary 1990, 1982, 1961, 1949, and 1928 made at this vast estate. From the first time I tasted this wine in cask, I have thought it to be among the blockbusters of the vintage. It has a black/purple color, mammoth structure, a fabulous wealth of fruit, and a finish that seems to last several minutes. This is indeed first-growth quality, but then, when, in the last decade, has a Gruaud-Larose not matched the quality of the first-growths? Given the enormous structure, impressive concentration, and massive tannins, one must wonder when this wine will be ready to drink. That may preclude a number of consumers from actually deciding to buy it. For many readers, this is probably a wine to lay down for their children, rather than for them to realistically consider drinking in their own lifetimes