Grange, Penfolds 2011

2011 was of course a difficult, uncharacteristically rainy vintage in South Australia and particularly Barossa, but thanks to Penfolds’ privileged position with access to some of the region’s best fruit, they have nonetheless been able to blend an impressive Grange. Still sourced mainly from Barossa Valley, there’s a good dollop of McLaren Vale fruit (21%) – a region less affected by the rains in 2011 - contributing to this vintage. Interestingly, it is the 6th vintage ever to consist of 100% Shiraz, mainly because the Cabernet Sauvignon didn't make the grade this year. (Note that no Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced in 2011.) Deep purple colored, in typical fashion the nose of the 2011 Grange is still closed at this youthful stage with broody tar and pepper laced notes over a core of blackberries, black plums, licorice and loam. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is taut and muscular with pepper and baking spice flavors supported by firm, grainy tannins. The finish has great length, contributing a refreshing lift.

The 2011 Grange doesn’t let the side down, in that it has the diagnostic excitement the Grange name triggers, and it’s vivid and concentrated. The fruit is less plump and swelling than in recent vintages, and the palate more edgy and crenellated; the flavours flirt with prunes and coffee. But it remains a remarkably concentrated, engaging and un-ordinary wine.

Cool, minty and fresh, with lots of dry chewiness. Austere and rather hard work at present, though there is a lot packed in. Inkissimo!