Grands Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2005

This was last year and still is considerably more reserved and less expressive though the discreet aromas are decidedly more elegant with much more floral influence on the violet and rose petal infused aromas that are nuanced by soy, hoisin and clove notes that can also be found on the muscular, robust and powerful big-bodied flavors that exude dry extract on the detailed and hugely persistent finish. This is both stylish and classy with tautly wound flavors that have that great sense of underlying tension and cuts-like-a-knife precision. Note however that this is, at a comparable stage, so much more primary and backwards than normal that this will need a very long time in the cellar to arrive at its majority, indeed I am not at all sure that the 20 years that I am suggesting will be sufficient.

The 2005 Grands-Echezeaux displays an utterly different, less charming personality than its "little" sibling. Fresh black raspberry and black cherry hover between sorbet-like and faintly-caramelized manifestations. The palate is obviously dense, with considerable grip and ultra-fine tannins, incipient silkiness, but not the creaminess of the Echezeaux. Fresh berry, faintly tart fruit skin, and nut oils inform an uncannily kinetic finish that makes one's mouth quiver.

Brilliant crimson robe. Quite intense and burly - positively autumnal already. Wonderful combination of richness and delicacy. Convincing fine tannins on the finish. Very complete and unmistakably 2005 whereas the Échezeaux is a little less thrilling. Long and vibrant and revitalising. Really a tonic of a wine. Much more vivid than the Échezeaux. Drink 2015-2030.Date tasted 19th Feb 08.