Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Domaine Fourrier 2022

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru, the cuvée that comes from vines planted in 1910, has an intense bouquet with slightly darker fruit than the regular blend and more heightened intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid red berry fruit, superb tension, and a structured finish that is intense rather than powerful. Maybe slightly less of those shucked oyster shells on the finish? Alternating between them, perversely, I might opt for the regular cuvée. (Drink between 2028-2052)

Mid fresh crimson purple. Very clean, pure crisp alpine strawberry and raspberry, quite fine boned this year, not explosive. Needed to retaste and now I can see more raspberry flesh. Fine structure behind, with the characteristic energy in the fruit and at the finish. Fine long aftertaste.

The somewhat modest colour of the Clos Saint-Jacques belies the aromatic intensity of this wine with its beguiling black cherry fruit aromas touched with smoke, leather, earth, and spice. The texture is firmly tannic and full-bodied, with intense concentration and length – 'this has everything' in my notes. The domaine's 0.89-hectare parcel sits next to Rousseau; it was originally planted in 1910. The grapes are destemmed, but the best and ripest stems are added back to the vats. Ideally, one would wait at least five years before enjoying this wine and then drink it over the next 30 years. (Drink between 2027-2055)