Fonseca 2007

A limpid purple garnet core. The nose is quintessential Fonseca, like a riotous party reaching its crescendo in the glass. Macerated black cherries, eau-de-vie, damson, fig and a touch of Seville orange. Then what is fascinating is that the uproar dies down with aeration, becomes more focused...as if the host has asked everyone to quieten down. The palate is powerful and spicy on the entry, sweet ripe black berried fruits, a touch of spice, fig and apricot, lovely cohesion and weight building towards a deeply joyous finish that lacquers the mouth in port-like reverie. Perhaps more approachable than the 2000 or the 2003 at this stage, this is a marvellous Fonseca.

The 2007 Fonseca Vintage Port is opaque purple-colored with a high-class perfume of lavender, Asian spices, pencil lead, incense, and an amalgam of black fruits. On the palate it is voluminous with layered, succulent fruit, outstanding density, and excellent integration of tannin, acidity, and alcohol. The long finish and the wine's impeccable balance suggest a lengthy evolution and a drinking window extending out to 2045.

A subtle yet powerful young Vintage Port, with freshly sliced plum, citrus and mulberry on the nose. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a solid core of powerful tannins and a long, balanced finish. So tight and reserved. Muscularly structured. Best after 2017. -JS

Deep bright ruby. Subdued black fruits and bitter chocolate on the slightly medicinal nose, with hints of fig and maple syrup. Very ripe and rich, but without the normal mid-palate lift or distinction of this port. Sweet black cherry, dark berry and spice flavors lack ultimate power and thrust. I don't sense a hidden dimension here. Finishes with serious ripe tannins and very good but not outstanding length. This was actually the best of four different bottles I tasted; one of the others showed more tired and high-toned aromas and another finished with drier tannins. Perhaps I have simply been unlucky with this wine, but the 2007 Fonseca appears to be disappointing in the context of the vintage.