Figeac 1982

This is actually a younger, more concentrated wine than the 1990. A dense plum/garnet color with a slight lightening at the edge is followed by a sensational Figeac nose of mint, fruitcake, Asian spices, gobs of sweet black and red fruits, and a smoky component in the background. Medium to full-bodied with lovely freshness, this 1982 appears to be fully mature, but it tasted the same a decade ago, and it should hold at this level for another 10-20 years.

I have had brilliant bottles of the 1982 Figeac, but this wine appears to be characterized by above-average bottle variation. Exhibiting aromas of sweet berry fruit, baking spices and currants, but also a pronounced minty, herbaceous streak, this example is medium-bodied, supple and seamless, with melted tannins and a fragrant finish; but it lacks the texture and completeness of the best bottles. At its best, the 1982 can merit a score two or three points higher, so I was sorry not to land on a great bottle for this report.

The 1982 Figeac is a wine that I have tasted over a dozen times, a mercurial Saint-Émilion can surprise and disappoint at a whim. Certainly here, compared to the 1966 and 1975, I am a bit underwhelmed. The bouquet is jarringly herbaceous unlike many of its Right Bank peers. The palate is dry and structured, perhaps more like a 1983 than a 1982. There are fleeting glimpses of a great wine, the balance and the length both impressive however, I wager that the Cabernet never quite reached full ripeness thus rendering the finish rather peppery and raw, which is so uncommon in the 1982 vintage. Tasted at Christies' Figeac dinner with Marie-France Manoncourt. 2018 - 2025

Along with the 1990, the 1982 is one of my favourite Figeacs of the last three decades. The fully mature 1982 offers a profoundly complex nose of cedar, smoky tobacco/cigar box, dried herbs, black currants, licorice and spice. In the mouth, the wine does not reveal the huge volume and roasted ripeness found in many of the top 1982s, but it does possess extraordinary complexity, finesse and harmony. Medium-bodied, with gorgeously rich fruit, this delicate, subtle, ethereal effort is both well-defined and intense. It should continue to drink well for 7-10 years, possible longer.